Travelling in Himachal in June – 2007
Shimla >> Manali >> Rohtang >> Chandratal >> Ki/Kibber/Tabo >> Kalpa >> Shimla
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The travelogue on Lahaul, Spiti and Kinnaur is complete with this post. Here is the last one on planning, logistics and other information on the trip.
We started from Manali and ended in Shimla, travelling via Batal, Kaza, Nako and Rekong Peo. It is perfectly fine to do it the other way too, which seems to be the most common way to travel because Shimla is closer to Delhi and that’s where most people would like to begin.
Road Conditions
Some sections of the road will be closed in winter and will be open only for 4-6 months a year. If you are starting early in summer, it is always good to know weather condition. The stretch between Shimla and Kaza is likely to remain open through the year unless there are landslides or exceptionally bad weather. Rohtang Pass opens some time in late May but can get delayed depending on snow conditions. Kunzum la can take more time to open.
If you are planning to take your own vehicle, do note that the section of the road from Rohtang Pass to Losar village in Spiti can’t be done by cars. This stretch doesn’t have tarmac and can be ridden with stones and bad surface. It is better done with a utility vehicle. Tata Sumo and Mahindra jeeps seem to be the most commonly used vehicles. Scorpios might work too, but I haven’t seen Qualis or Tavera plying on these roads. The stretch from Kaza to Shimla can also be done by a small car. Bikes should be able manage the entire journey without too much of a problem, though Rohtang Pass to Losar will be a bit painful.
Road to Chandratal is always the last to open, if at all. Sometimes forest department closes the road to keep the place environment friendly while people with other interest try to keep it open. Always find the latest status before you go.
Weather
It doesn’t get very cold in summer, despite the altitude. I found a good jacket and a woolen cap to be sufficient cover. Days are in fact warm to hot. The high altitude sun tends to be very strong, and carrying sunscreen is important. Always wear full shirt or you might risk sunburn on the hands.
Logistics and expenses
You can hire Sumos or Mahindra jeeps in Manali, and hopefully in Shimla too. This would be the biggest of your expenses, so more people you have less expensive it is. The prices are much higher than in the plains and it might cost you more than Rs.2,000 per day. A lot of people do this journey in bikes too. Bikes can be hired in Delhi or Manali, but as far as I know there are no bike rentals in Shimla. The general opinion seems to be that you can get good bikes in Delhi but not in Manali. Food and accommodation is inexpensive in most places, but is also basic.
Public transport is available in good frequency till Rekong Peo. Connectivity from Rekong Peo to Kaza is also not bad, but you might want to know the timings before hand and plan the journey after you reach Rekong Peo. Buses start plying between Kaza and Manali a little late in summer, as it takes some time for the road to be fit for buses to go.
An ideal itinerary according to me would take seven days, stopping at Batal(2 days), Kaza(2 days), Nako, Kalpa, Sangla. But most people do it in 5 days or less, which is very much possible. The fastest you can do is in three days, doing just driving and little else. The most scenic part of the journey is between Rohtang Pass and Kaza.
Also see more information on Shimla, Manali and Kalpa.
End of the Series.
Travelling in Himachal in June – 2007
Shimla >> Manali >> Rohtang >> Chandratal >> Ki/Kibber/Tabo >> Kalpa >> Shimla
+ Previous: Highlights of Kinnaur
+ Next: Infomration on Lahaul, Spiti and Kinnaur
+ Go to beginning of the story or index page
Kalpa Village in Kinnaur was our next stop in the journey.
Being in Rekong Peo, the big town just before Kalpa, is like returning to ‘normal world’ from mountains of unlikely scale, desert like climes and altitudes running to five digits. And life is also ‘normal’ – almost like in the plains – motor traffic increases several folds, there are people everywhere, and the town has every kind of commerce you will see in a town of its size anywhere in the country. Wide roads with good tarmac that was unimaginable till now in Spiti, takes you through the town and then into Kalpa. It is still not a place flat enough to have football grounds, but is a far less forgiving landscape than in the high altitude desert we had left behind.
The road climbs steeply from Rekong Peo to Kalpa but driver Mangal takes it fast and easy, after being through the terrible roads for many days. Apple orchards and other cultivation dominate the vegetation, with a few small strips of coniferous growth here and there.
Once in a while we see signs of guesthouses indicating that it is a well visited place. There aren’t too many of them though, and fortunately bigger and plush hotels have not yet arrived here. But that doesn’t mean Kalpa can be be put in ‘undiscovered’ category. Tourists from Delhi, tired of going back to Shimla every year and wanting explore newer locations, come here in good numbers to escape the summer heat. Once entering the village, small guesthouses are everywhere, and a construction in progress springs up every hundred meters. It can almost get classified as a hill station sans the Raj influence. Don’t be surprised if you arrive here ten years down to see a few Obeois, Tajs and Hiltons complete with a mall-road where people juggle for space.
Kalpa’s pleasant weather is only second of its major attractions. It is the view of Kinner Kailash ranges on the other side of the valley that pulls in people here. Nearly every guesthouse proudly displays posters of these mountains bathed in golden light of early winter evenings. Unfortunately we were there on a time when it was cloudy half the time, although not completely betrayed of the views. But having been soaked in the grandeur of Spiti where we walked right in those high mountains, Kinner Kailash suddenly seemed far away and less impressive from the distance we were in. But that is not to undermine the great views of these snow-clad peaks. It is a good place to rewind and relax and is an ideal long weekend getaway from heat and dust. And yes, definitely much better than Shimla.
Information
Kalpa is known for its pleasant weather and views of Kinner Kailash range of mountains. Legend has it that Kinner Kailash is the winter abode of Shiva. At a distance of approximately 250km from Shimla, it can take the whole day to reach here. Roads are decent, at least for the standard of terrain, and it is not too hard to drive. Buses connect Shimla with Rekong Peo town, and Kalpa is a short 30 minute away from there. You can combine your visit to Kalpa with Sangla and Chitkul known for their mountain scenery. There are some budget to mid-range accommodation available in the village, and should not be hard to find a place except in weekends of peak seasons. Summers here are pleasant, and I was told that it can get really cold in winter.
Continued at Information on Lahaul, Spiti and Kinnaur
List of posts from Lahaul and Spiti
* Driving to Batal from Rohtan Pass
* Batal and Chandratal
* Kunzum La, Kaza, Ki Monastery, Kibber Village
* Tabo Monastery and Nako Village
* The hurried women of Nako