Categories: kerala

The Impact of Tea Estates

Bandipur -> Wayanad -> Kozhikode -> Guruvayur -> Cochin -> Periyar

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Three years ago, looking on the expanse of tea estates on the hills of the Nilgiris, a friend exclaimed –

“Aren’t they beautiful!”

They indeed were. But there was something else running in my mind.

“These tea estates destroy the environment,” I told to her.

“What nonsense, they are also vegetation”, she replied instantly.

It was a casual response, but it hit me so hard that I haven’t forgotten it in these years. Like many other people who visit these estates, she was ignorant of the impact of tea estates but only indulged in its beauty. Ignorance is no crime, and I did not want to go on a boring lecture trip about how tea estates would have changed our surroundings. But I decided to write whatever I know about them some day. With that, here is an attempt to make an analysis of the effects of sprawling tea estates on the local environment.

THE VALPARAI STORY

Valparai was a region in Tamil Nadu with thick evergreen forest that served as a habitat for Lion Tailed Macaques. The Macaques live on the trees, move around from tree to tree and rarely step on the ground. They were a thriving population in the thick forest, until the British started establishing tea plantations in the region. Thick contiguous stretches of forest gave way to tea plantations and only fragments of the forest remained over time. The movement of Lion Tailed Macaques were restricted by the tea plantations and they had trouble finding their food, mates and lost their freedom to move freely. Habitat loss resulted in considerable reduction in their population. Now, Lion Tailed Macaques are an endangered species that can be found in limited numbers, confined to small forest stretches that are still remaining.

The Macaques being a large species, their dwindling numbers were noticed, but many smaller species like birds, insects and amphibians may have gone completely unnoticed.

THE DEATH OF PERENNIAL RIVERS

Thick evergreen forests are a source of the water for the surrounding regions. Pouring rains in these hills bring alive rivers that feed the plains of Deccan Plateau. The rains feed the rivers for only three months in the monsoon, but forest continues to generate water even after the rains are gone. Sholas and thick forests create a cooler than normal weather under the canopy, which causes the moisture in the atmosphere to condense and precipitate in small quantities. This precipitation eventually feeds small streams that become feeders to the rivers. Rivers like Kaveri and Tungabhadra remain perennially flowing due to such precipitation in the western ghats. But since the arrival of tea estates, these feeders have disappeared and many perennial rivers like Amaravathi in Tamil Nadu, originating from Palani hills have become seasonal, creating water scarcity.

A stream in the forest
Thick forests are a source of streams like this

Mass deforestation and planting of Eucalyptus and Pine in the Nilgiris also has lead to similar effect.

During our many walks in the forests and tea plantations in Kerala, the difference were very evident. We saw many streams running with water in the hills covered with forests of Wayanad, but not much of them to see where there were tea plantations.

Tea Estate, Kerala

LOSS OF BIO-DIVERSITY

We spent a lot of time looking for birds in various regions of Wayanad. That included evergreen forests, and also tea plantations which have replaced the evergreen forests. The evergreen patches were teeming with species of birds. An hour of walking in the forest would yield us 20-30 species of birds. At the same time, we would see only 4-5 variety when we spent an hour in a tea estate. The forest can provide food and shelter to support rich biodiversity, which can’t happen in a tea estate’s environment.

SOIL EROSION

Tea plants are never a substitute to an evergreen forest in holding the soil. In a forest, thick Canopy helps slow down the fury of the rains. And when the raindrops finally comes down, it is slowed down further by undergrowth and grass. Flow of water does not get to carry much of top-soil with its current. Tea plantations don’t have such capacity; lot of top soil gets eroded each year with the rains, resulting in reduced soil fertility.

CHEMICAL POLLUTION

All the pesticides and fertilizers used in growing tea do not disintegrate and go away easily. They come down the slope with the next rain and join the streams and lakes, and eventually rivers. Drinking water, sourced from these rivers, streams or lakes will end up with traces of pesticides. Dams downstream ensure that the ground water also gets infected. When the same water is used in agriculture, our cereals and vegetables also get traces of these pesticides. The pesticides go into fish in the streams and enter our food. Indeed, tea plantations are not the only source of pesticides, but they do have a role to play.

These are only some of the problems that arise out of rampant destruction of forests in favour of plantations. There would be many more I am not even aware of. At some point of time, I was disturbed enough that I have even reduced my intake of tea! All said, I can’t help admit that tea plantations look beautiful and those green manicured hills are a treat to the eyes. But when we are looking at these things, it helps to be aware of the trouble that comes with them.

To be continued..


Categories: kerala

Travelling through Wayanad

Bandipur -> Wayanad -> Kozhikode -> Guruvayur -> Cochin -> Periyar

+Previous: Bangalore to Wayanad
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Although we passed through Wayanad, a beautiful place in itself, we had not made plans to explore much of it. With nearly a week to spend, we wanted to travel down south to Cochin and Periyar to explore places far from our base. This was my third visit to Wayanad and we did not spend much time here.

Around ten in the morning, we visited the beautiful Phookot Lake, took a stroll around the lake and before we drove further to Kozhikode. Below is all the information about travelling in Wayanad. Also see:

Wayanad Travel Information

You can read about my previous visits to Wayanad, which are detailed trip reports, at Birding in Wayanad, and hill stations of South India tour.

Wayanad is relatively less touristy, unexplored and unexploited area of Kerala. This lies high in the Western Ghats, and is home to a few wildlife sanctuaries, tall hills and tea estates. Kalpetta is the largest town and district headquarters of Wayanad. There are many places to see and activities to do. Directions and tourist information is easily available once you reach there, so don’t worry much about the homework and just arrive here to explore more.

Places to see and things to do.

TREKKING AND WALKING

Chembra Peak: This is the tallest peak in Wayanad district, and is a day’s climb. To climb the peak, you need to get permits from forest department office at Meppady village. To reach Chembra, take the Kozhikode road from Kalpetta and turn left just after the town. You will hit Meppady village after a short drive where you can get your permits, ask for directions and proceed. Start early, since the trek up and back will take six hours or more. See more about my experience on trekking up the Chembra here.

Wayanad landscape
Landscape on the way to Edakkal

Edakal Caves: Caves may be a misnomer, they are actually a bunch of rocks which form a shelter. Inside the shelter are a few prehistoric inscriptions and pictures, about which a guide gives you some vague explanations. The real attraction is the hill on which the rocks are located. It is a good climb that gives you uninterrupted views of the surroundings from the top. See more on Edakal on my birding trip report.

Pakshi Patalam or Narimale Caves, and Brahmagiri Peak: This is a trek up the Brahmagiri ranges. What is called Narimale in Karnataka is called Pakshi Patalam in Kerala. The trek requires permits an escorting forest guide, for which you need to contact at their office on the way to Tirunelli. Arrive early at the office, since the trek can take the whole day. Trek up the Brahmagiri peak is much shorter, but there is a longer approach from Karnataka. You can also walk along river Kalindi, which flows down from Brahmagiri ranges. Another attraction is the Tirunelli temple at the base of the hill. See a brief on my visit to Tirunelli on my birding trip report. Also see a detailed report on climbing Brahmagiri from Karnataka side.

Meenmutty Waterfall: Plan this as a full day activity. This is a 30-minute drive away from Kalpetta, followed by a long trek into a valley. Some locals may be willing to guide you through the walk, though hiring one is not really necessary. The waterfall is in a deep valley which also has some amazing views. You need some degree of fitness, as the trek to the valley takes you through a very steep bridle path.

WILDLIFE AND BIRDING

Birding around Wayanad: With Wayanad having some thick evergreen vegetation and hills, you can see many birds of the western ghats in this region. Here a small incomplete list of birds I saw when I made a birding trip to Wayanad: Asian Fairy Blue Bird, Scarlet Minivet, Emerald Dove, Yellow Browed Bulbul, Bar winged flycatcher shrike, Black lored tit, Chestnut tailed starlings, Forest Wagtail, Malabar Grey Hornbill, Plum headed parakeets, lorikeets, and many many more. Edakal caves and Tirunelli are great places for birding, where we saw many different species.

Yellow Browed Bulbul
A Yellow Browed Bulbul

Wildlife sanctuaries: Wayanad has many wildlife sanctuaries. Muthanga wildlife sanctuary is part of the Nilgiri Biosphere Reserve, and is contiguous with Bandipur National Park. You can go into Muthanga with your own or hired jeeps(which are available in Sultan Battery), with a forest department escort. Other sanctuaries include Begur Wildlife Sanctuary and Tholpetty Wildlife Sanctuary.

SIGHTSEEING

Phookot Lake: A beautiful natural lake amidst dense forest, this is around 15 minute drive from Kalpetta and is a short deviation after Vythiri on Kozhikode road. A must visit place in Wayanad.

Phookot Lake
Phookot Lake

Tea Estates: There are many hills south of Kalpetta where tea is cultivated. The road to Chembra from Kalpetta, Kalpetta – Ooty road, and the road towards Meenmutty falls are good choices if you want to drive around tea estates. The road to Chembra peak takes you inside a private tea estate, which is worth a look.

Tea Estate at Wayanad
Tea estates on the way to Chembra Peak

Other than these, Soochipara waterfall is another well known tourist destination. The road to Kozhikode near Lakkidi is scenic, where you drive through winding roads which quickly drop down to the plains before you hit the sea.

ACCOMMODATION

Kalpetta is a good place to stay and explore Wayanad. It has a few hotels from budget to mid-range. Green Magic resort near Vythiri has made a name for itself for its tree house accommodations.

MORE INFORMATION, ELSEWHERE

1. See Wayanad.com and wayanad.net for tourist information, hotels, and more information on Wayanad district.
2. Wayanad Tourism Organization is a non-profit organization to promote tourism in Wayanad.
3. Wayanad District on Wikipidea

To be continued..


Categories: kerala

Bangalore to Wayanad

Bandipur -> Wayanad -> Kozhikode -> Guruvayur -> Cochin -> Periyar

+Previous: Beginning of the series: Kerala Chronicles
+Next: At Wayanad
+Go to the beginning of the series

We had been pretty busy during the days before our leaving. That meant we had done little planning before we hit the road. Infact it was so bad, we were actually struggling with the guidebook and try to figure out where to go! All we knew was that we were heading to Kerala, but had no idea about where in Kerala! We left the city pretty late – around 4 in the evening and decided to get to Kalpetta and spend the night.

We must have reached Gundlupet around 9pm. We stopped here for a while before continuing on the road to Kalpetta that passed through Bandipur National Park. This section of the drive was something I looked forward to.

For more information on Bandipur National Park, including what to do and where to stay, see my earlier report on visit to Bandipur.

Driving through the National Park’s forest in a moonlit night is an overwhelming experience. The road slits through thick treeline, forming silhouttes in the soft light. The silence of the forest is broken only by the gentle friction between the tyres and the road, and occasioanlly disturbed by a bird of animal somewhere in the trees. The forest absorbs you from all the sides, overpowering and awing the senses. Occasional gentle breeze and swaying of the trees induces a soothing feeling as we drive through. Our indulgence with the surroundings was enhanced by two tuskers that were enjoying a moonlit dinner of fine grass by the roadside. Mother nature was unfolding its magic to us in the widlerness. I slowed down for a second look but did not stop, keeping our safety and eventually their safety in mind. As we moved ahead, we saw a few more animals including sambars. We slowed down at some point to feel and enjoy the silence, only to accelerate quickly, warned by a trumpeting pachyderm.

The drive lasted for more than an hour before the stretch of the wilderness ended. We drove on for another hour before we reached Kalpetta, checked into a hotel to end our day.

To be continued..