Travelling in the North-East in the summer of 2006
Guwahati >> Eaglenest >> Tawang >> Nameri >> Kaziranga >> Shillong >> Cherrapunjee
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Update: Cherrapunjee is now renamed as Sohra, the name it used to have before the time of the British.
Cherrapunjee is well known to everyone as the place where it rains the most in the world. But what is not well known is that it is a very beautiful place with green hills and many waterfalls. I would personally put it as one of the most beautiful places in the lower regions of the north east. But today Cherrapunjee is no longer the place where the precipitation is the highest – as the credit has now gone to a near by place called Mawsynram.
One of the days I was Shillong, I decided to take the daily sightseeing tour of Cherrapunjee offered by Meghalaya tourism. I would have preferred to explore it myself, but there are many places to see around Cherrapunjee and there is hardly any public transport available.
The guide on the tour bus looked young and not really well prepared for his work. After introducing himself, he asked if everyone understood English. But he hardly waited for answers and concluded with the next sentence – “English is the official language of Meghalaya, so I will speak in English”. And he had a funny English. He would describe every place saying ‘one place is there’, and little else. So mostly we got to know from him that “one valley is there”, “one falls is there”, etc.. I posed him a few questions I had about some places, and he did not seem to know, and did not show much enthusiasm in having a conversation either.
A valley on the way to Cherrapunjee
But in any case, the tour was good and we went through beautiful places. We first stopped at a beautiful valley of which the name I can’t recall. Most of the places had names difficult to pronounce, so I had difficulty remembering them or noting them down. We were still in a dry place but could see clouds in a distance faraway in the valley indicating of things to come.
Nohkalikai falls
Now you see it.. now you don’t.. The fog kept playing with us as long as we were there
Up close and a rainbow
As we moved further, we were driving on a plateau with grasslands and occasional fragments of forest. This is the plateau where Cherrapunjee stands on, and we started seeing clouds and wet weather. The ground was damp indicating that it has been raining. The guide said the rains begin in April and continue to increase in the coming months. It was getting foggy around us and as we drove, we kept moving in and out of fog every now and then!
grasslands and strips of forests on the plateau on which Cherra stands
The town of Cherrapunjee is a small place which has nothing much of interest except for its precipitation. Beyond the town of Cherrapunjee, Nohkalikai falls was our first stop. It is said to be the second highest waterfall in India after Jog Falls, and is named after a lady who is said to have died there. It was indeed very tall, and clouds kept hiding it from us. In the 30 minutes or so we were there, we could see it sometimes and then it would be blocked by fog, only to reveal itself again in a few minutes.
Inside Mawsmai Cave
The next stop was Mawsmai Cave. It is a large cave with openings on both ends, and was big enough for people to walk through it. The region around Cherrapunjee is known to have several caves of this kind.
Panorama Seven Sister Falls as seen from the hills opposing the valley
One of the Seven Sister Falls, up close
We stopped at the top of a cliff overlooking the famous seven-sister falls for lunch. It was like a restaurant in the sky from where we could look down at the vast expanses of Bangaladesh below, and at a series of waterfalls at the opposing cliff, called seven-sister falls. After lunch, we drove to the other side from where the water was falling down.
We moved on from here to see a garden which seemed to have been created for the tourists arriving to Cherrapunjee, and then to a few more waterfalls of which I can’t recall the names. Each place we went to was green and beautiful, and I wished I could spend much more time here. Cherra deserves spending a few days around its beautiful vistas, but my day trip had to end much quicker.
one of the stream that falls off the cliff and into Bangladesh
A lady near Cherra
I spent another day in Shillong walking around Shillong Peak and within the city. I then moved on to Guwahati, and eventually back to Bangalore, ending my almost a month long journey in the North East.
About Cherrapunjee
Cherrapunjee is a less than 2 hour drive from Shillong. It is advisable to cover the region with your own transport, since there is plenty to see which can’t be done by public transport. It is a beautiful region and deserves a few days of your attention. The well known places to see are the Nohkalikai falls, seves sister falls, Mawsmai caves and the vistas of the planes of Bangladesh from a height. One of the local attractions include root bridges, which are naturally formed bridges that are actually roots of trees that grow across streams.
Cherra is a small town and it did not look like the town had any kind of accommodation available, but being close to Shillong, it should not be a problem. Cherra resorts is a family run resort near Cherrapunjee.
(End of the Series)
Travelling in the North-East in the summer of 2006
Guwahati >> Eaglenest >> Tawang >> Nameri >> Kaziranga >> Shillong >> Cherrapunjee
+Previous: At Kaziranga National Park
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Kaziranga National Park is a UNESCO world heritage site, and is well known for One Horned Rhino which have now become endemic to the region.
Previous posts on Kaziranga
* Arriving at Kaziranga
* Two days at Kaziranga
Although Kaziranga is not the only place where you see the Rhinos, it is the place where you see them in plenty, and a sighting is almost guaranteed. You can find Rhinos in a few more parks in Assam. Rhinos, though are the prime attraction of the park, there are other animals in plenty, such as the elephants, wild buffaloes, deer(swamp deer, chitals, barking deer). The park even has tigers, though sightings are not common. When it comes to birds, Kaziranga is the habitat of Bengal Florican, a rare, critically endangered species.
A few decades ago, the numbers of the Rhinos were rapidly declining due to rampant poaching, and the future looked bleak for them in Kaziranga. But good park management and a ‘shoot to kill’ approach against the poachers in the later years has brought life back to the park, and the Rhinos have thrived, with plenty of food and water available in the grasslands on the banks of Brahmaputra.
THINGS TO DO, AND PLACES TO STAY
Elephant rides in the park are one of the biggest attraction, since it lets you get very close to the Rhinos. Although the safari elephants are in good numbers, you may not be guaranteed a ride due to rush in the peak season. You can also go on a jeep safari in the park. Accommodation around the park is also limited. There are very few hotels or resorts, and a few government run lodges are the main places to stay. Book ahead during weekends and seasons. Wild Grass Lodge, a mid-range accommodation has earned itself a good name.
HOW TO REACH
Kohora is the village just outside the National Park where all tourist amenities and the park office are located. Kaziranga is a six hour journey from Guwahati. Buses from Guwahati to Jorhat and Dibrugarh go via Kohora.
Travelling in the North-East in the summer of 2006
Guwahati >> Eaglenest >> Tawang >> Nameri >> Kaziranga >> Shillong >> Cherrapunjee
+Previous: Arriving at Kaziranga
+Next: About Kaziranga National Park
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I spent two days in Kaziranga, going on elephant rides, taking jeep safaris, walking all around, looking for birds and listening to stories from a Manipuri guy who was with me.
“Don’t go to Manipur”, he said when I told him that my travel plans further are not very rigid. At last count, he said there were more than 80 militant outfits in Manipur. The porous border with Myanmar had resulted in everyone taking to guns, and at some point of time it seems to have become a common practice that people got accustomed to. The militants lay their own check posts on the roads, ask for their taxes, etc. It is apparently complete lawlessness and my friend was very upset about it. A few months down, some friends who went their unknowingly, confirmed that Manipur is an avoidable region for the traveller.
After going through the bureaucracy to get a seat of elephant back, we managed to secure an allocation for the next morning. The park entry where you assemble for the ride is a good 3km from the tourist complex where the hotels existed. Having no means of transport, we were walking the way on the pleasant morning, and were picked up half way by a friendly park officer. Once there, I realized the reason for having a booking process in place, even if it is a cumbersome one. They have way too many – more than a dozen safari elephants in Kaziranga, and they serve more than one one-hour shift every morning. The number of tourists who take the ride is probably more than hundred. We had secured a booking for 7am slot and when we reached there around that time, there were no elephants. They had gone into the forest(meadow is the better word) with 6am batch and started returning around 7.10am. I can’t recall if there was an 8am batch, I think there wasn’t any.
A Rhino walks in style, head high, in its territory
You can get really up close to a Rhino during elephant ride. Close enough to shake hands(with its legs or horn as it wishes!), if Rhino willing!
Yawnnn… these tourists are so boring..!
Though I despise elephant rides, it is the best way to see Rhinos, and any other animals that you might get to see in the park. Elephants and Rhinos seem to live a harmonic life in the park, and they tend to get as close as a few feet to the rhinos. So close – if you ever happen to fall from the pachyderm’s back, don’t be surprised if you land on the rhino’s back!
Ah.. Nice pool for a good bath!
In the hour long ride, we saw plenty of rhinos. Kaziranga is one national park where people never go back disappointed. With a good and thriving population of Rhinos, you are pretty much guaranteed to see them. And if you are there in summer, you will also surely see herds of elephants and wild buffaloes. There are also plenty of deer to see, including the swamp deer(barasinga), ubiquitous chitals and a few barking deer. It seemed like a season of babies in Kaziranga while I was there. We saw many baby Rhinos and baby wild buffaloes. Even some of the escort elephants we were riding on, had babies following them!
A wild buffalo watches us wearily as it feeds its baby
A herd of wild buffaloes
Small family.. happy family..
Herd of deer
Elephant Herd
There were many birds too. I vaguely recall someone saying that everything comes in a big scale in Kaziranga. The mammals – rhinos, elephants and wild buffaloes are big. The wild buffaloes grow to such size that you can almost mistake them for elephants from a distance. Even the birds – pelicans, lesser adjutant storks and white necked storks are so big that they can probably easily lift a baby in their beaks and fly away.
Don’t mess with me!
A lesser adjutant stork
A red jungle fowl keeps a watch on us
A hoopoe
Later in the day we went on a jeep safari which lasted for good two hours. It was in the safari that I saw a few more birds, like the commonly seen Indian Roller, Jungle Fowls, white necked storks, pelicans, emerald doves and a many more.
Deer..
I spent the next day walking all around the place outside, to nearby villages and tea estates, looking around for birds. From here, I headed to Guwahati and then moved on to Shillong to spend a few more days.