Kinnaur – Kalpa Village

Travelling in Himachal in June – 2007
Shimla >> Manali >> Rohtang >> Chandratal >> Ki/Kibber/Tabo >> Kalpa >> Shimla
+ Previous: Highlights of Kinnaur
+ Next: Infomration on Lahaul, Spiti and Kinnaur
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Kalpa Village in Kinnaur was our next stop in the journey.

Being in Rekong Peo, the big town just before Kalpa, is like returning to ‘normal world’ from mountains of unlikely scale, desert like climes and altitudes running to five digits. And life is also ‘normal’ – almost like in the plains – motor traffic increases several folds, there are people everywhere, and the town has every kind of commerce you will see in a town of its size anywhere in the country. Wide roads with good tarmac that was unimaginable till now in Spiti, takes you through the town and then into Kalpa. It is still not a place flat enough to have football grounds, but is a far less forgiving landscape than in the high altitude desert we had left behind.

The road climbs steeply from Rekong Peo to Kalpa but driver Mangal takes it fast and easy, after being through the terrible roads for many days. Apple orchards and other cultivation dominate the vegetation, with a few small strips of coniferous growth here and there.

Kinner Kailash

Once in a while we see signs of guesthouses indicating that it is a well visited place. There aren’t too many of them though, and fortunately bigger and plush hotels have not yet arrived here. But that doesn’t mean Kalpa can be be put in ‘undiscovered’ category. Tourists from Delhi, tired of going back to Shimla every year and wanting explore newer locations, come here in good numbers to escape the summer heat. Once entering the village, small guesthouses are everywhere, and a construction in progress springs up every hundred meters. It can almost get classified as a hill station sans the Raj influence. Don’t be surprised if you arrive here ten years down to see a few Obeois, Tajs and Hiltons complete with a mall-road where people juggle for space.

Kinner Kailash, Kalpa

Kalpa’s pleasant weather is only second of its major attractions. It is the view of Kinner Kailash ranges on the other side of the valley that pulls in people here. Nearly every guesthouse proudly displays posters of these mountains bathed in golden light of early winter evenings. Unfortunately we were there on a time when it was cloudy half the time, although not completely betrayed of the views. But having been soaked in the grandeur of Spiti where we walked right in those high mountains, Kinner Kailash suddenly seemed far away and less impressive from the distance we were in. But that is not to undermine the great views of these snow-clad peaks. It is a good place to rewind and relax and is an ideal long weekend getaway from heat and dust. And yes, definitely much better than Shimla.

Information
Kalpa is known for its pleasant weather and views of Kinner Kailash range of mountains. Legend has it that Kinner Kailash is the winter abode of Shiva. At a distance of approximately 250km from Shimla, it can take the whole day to reach here. Roads are decent, at least for the standard of terrain, and it is not too hard to drive. Buses connect Shimla with Rekong Peo town, and Kalpa is a short 30 minute away from there. You can combine your visit to Kalpa with Sangla and Chitkul known for their mountain scenery. There are some budget to mid-range accommodation available in the village, and should not be hard to find a place except in weekends of peak seasons. Summers here are pleasant, and I was told that it can get really cold in winter.

Continued at Information on Lahaul, Spiti and Kinnaur


Images – Batal and Chandratal

Travelling in Himachal in June – 2007
Shimla >> Manali >> Rohtang >> Chandratal >> Ki/Kibber/Tabo >> Kalpa >> Shimla
+ Previous: Driving to Batal
+ Next: Kunzim La, Kaza, Ki Monastery and Kibber
+ Go to beginning of the story or index page

The night in the dhaba at Batal was comfortable. I was expecting it to get cold in those altitudes, but it was not bad at all. We did feel a little cold with the blowing wind outside but hardly anything of Himalayan scale. The days were in fact warm to hot and the temperature seemed to go beyond thirty degrees. I woke up early in the morning taking advantage of the fair weather. Sun was still invisible and beyond the mountains, but the first rays of the day were already on the distant mountain peaks that raised much above us, even we were still in shadow. Standing on the bank of Chandra River, I spent an hour photographing those sunlit mountain peaks scurrying from place to place and re-adjusting the tripod, lest I miss those beautiful moments before the sun rises high. But at the end of it, I felt a loss – a loss of not witnessing those pristine moments quietly sitting next to the river.

Chandra River
Chandra river flows in its valley

Chandra River

Batal
Early morning at Batal

Mountains of Lahaul

We had a quick breakfast of greasy but delicious Aloo Parathas and made our way towards Chandratal. It took us more than an hour’s drive to get there and it was the most dangerous road we drove through in the entire journey. The road was sometime narrow just enough to let our jeep pass, and any error in judgment would simply mean a plunge into the river. Some U turns were steep enough to require us to do a few iterations of forward-reverse to pass through. But arriving at the Chandratal, we could see all that effort was worth it. It is a long, turquoise colored water body with cold and clear water. Its surface was calm and reflected the snow-capped mountains and clear blue skies. We spent a few hours walking on the lake shore and enjoying the dramatic setup of the lake amidst the mountains.

Road to Chandratal
On the way to Chandratal

Chandratal Lake

Chandratal
Chandratal..

Continued at Kunzim La, Kaza, Ki Monastery and Kibber


Book Review: The Nanda Devi Affair by Bill Aitken

Author: Bill Aitken
Publishers: Penguin Books
Pages: 194

Those who are new to Bill Aitken might find his language of writing complicated, and at least initially, find it not very readable. But those who stick to him are the ones who are rewarded. Nanda Devi Affair is probably the finest book from Aitken portraying his love and passion for the mountains of Uttaranchal and is full of reverence to the goddess of the mountain in every page.

The book starts with Aitkens rambles about his love for mountains, and soon you will find him unable to stop raving about the beauty of Nanda Devi. As he explains the geography of the region, he walks the reader through his treks, sharing its beauty and talking about its lore mixed with little bit of history. His experiences of watching bharals(blue sheep) walk free, beauty of the high mountains and his ordeals of having to go through some difficult terrains and painful weather are all mixed with his greatest respect to what the mountain goddess has for him to offer. He also has plenty to talk about the mountain people of garhwal. An excellent book, and a must read for the mountain lovers.