Corbett: in the nature – a struggle between love and fear

Auli -> Rishikesh -> Corbett National Park -> Varanasi -> Agra

+Previous: First Day in Corbett
+Next: Hunting for the Tiger
+Go to beginning of the series

I witnessed this small incident when we were on the safari van in Corbett. We were driving on Sambar road inside Corbett National Park, which runs parallel to the river. A mother chital was feeding its baby on the river bed, and we stopped to watch. The deer our arrival and was alarmed. It decided to move away, but could not get it’s calf to follow. I watched them for a few seconds and captured the drama that unfolded there.

Corbett animals
Happy moments. Chital feeding it’s baby.

Corbett Spotted Deer
Mother notices our arrival and is alarmed.

Corbett spotted deer
Mother decides that they must move on, but the baby is unwilling. It wants to be fed and is not keen to follow the mother.

Corbett Chital
The mother looks back. She is in two minds – she wants to move away from the potential danger she sees in us. But the calf is refusing to follow.

Corbett National Park
Mother’s love wins over the fear of danger. She rushes back to protect her baby.

Corbett National Park
Finally, all is well and it is business as usual.

More on Corbett National Park at paintedstork.com
* Images from Corbett
* Arriving at Corbett
* First day at Corbett: safari day trip to Dhikala
* Corbett: In the nature – A struggle between fear and love
* The desperate tourist’s tiger hunt
* Photo Essay: Landscapes of Corbett
* My Days in Corbett
* Encounter with Pachyderms
* Information about Corbett National Park
* Moving on from Corbett


First Day in Corbett National Park

Auli -> Rishikesh -> Corbett National Park -> Varanasi -> Agra

+Previous: Rishikesh to Ramnagar(Corbett)
+Next: Corbett: A struggle in nature
+Go to beginning of the series

My plan at Corbett was to stay at Dhikala, which is deep inside the reserve for a few days, and roam around in the forest as much as possible. But staying in Dhikala was an expensive option and I wanted to make sure it was worth the money. So on the first day, I decided to take a day-trip to Dhikala conducted by the forest department – a 100km journey stretching for 7 hours.

Landscape of Corbett
Landscape of Corbett

I was early at the CTR(Corbett Tiger Reserve) office at Ramnagar. My initial assumption that – all I need is to buy a ticket and hop on to the safari van turned out to be wrong. The bureaucracy you have to go through to get a safari ticket is just amazing. You need to fill in an application, and they take their own sweet time to process it and then put you on the van. I think it took more than 30 minutes before I was finally allotted a seat, and another 30 minutes before we started moving! Most of the passengers for the day-trip were picked up from the resorts on the way. oddly, the safari had no guides or naturalists accompanying the tourists, but a guard with a loaded ancient gun escorting us through the journey! I got to sit with the driver and the guard in the spacious front seat and had the best view in the whole vehicle.

We first travel on the national highway to Nainital – a road that goes right next to Kosi River for most of the distance. By the time we arrived at Dhangadi Gate where we enter the reserve, it was already 10am. Dhangadi has a small exhibition complex where they have a display of stuffed animals. A placard in front of each animal has an interesting story, telling how the specimen met its end. One of them was a tiger killed by an elephant. There were a couple of man-eater leopards and tigers that were shot dead. I saw the bullet mark on one of the leopards. And a tiger was killed in territorial wars with another one of its own kind. It is intriguing to look at those huge tigers from so close, even when they are dead!

Gharials in Corbett
Gharials

Corbett’s forest is beautiful. Tall Sal trees with little undergrowth are frequently partitioned by numerous streams flowing in the forest. Almost three quarters of the park’s has Sal trees and the vegetation is moist deciduous. Animals were in plenty and the herbivores were seen often. We did not see many birds through the day, but Corbett is a great place to see raptors(birds of prey).

Wild boars in Corbett National Park
Wild boars on the bank of Ramaganga

An hour into the forest, we stopped at high banks to have a look at Gharials. High banks, as the name says is high viewpoint looking into the river. You can always see Gharials lazing here in the sun. Gharials or Magar as it is locally called, are crocodiles with long jaws and are the only one of their kind that eat fish. There were two of them when we were there, both lying still and lazy as they always are.

Ramaganga River in Corbett National Park
Egrets on Ramaganga

As we moved deeper into the forest, trees gave way to a huge grassland. Dhikala tourist complex is situated in one corner of this grassland, overlooking the forest to the east, grassland on west and Ramaganga flowing besides the complex to the north. It is an incredibly beautiful place and when I saw that first, I knew I wanted to spend as much time here as I can. We stopped at Dhikala for an hour for lunch before we continued our wildlife hunt.

Pallas Fishing Eagle
A Pallas Fish Eagle

Dhikala and the surrounding grasslands is where all the action is – you spot many tigers in this region. Elephants roam in plenty and so do many other animals. We saw several types of deer, including barking deer, hog deer, chitals and sambars. We also saw wild boars, some jungle cat that we could not identify, a fishing eagle and a few more birds. Even more than the fauna, I fell in love with Corbett’s beautiful landscape and decided to return to Dhikala on the next day.

It was 4.30pm by the time we finished our safari and returned to Ramnagar. I was happy to have arrived at Corbett and spent remaining part of the day negotiating for a jeep that I needed to hire for my rest of the stay in Corbett.

More on Corbett National Park at paintedstork.com
* Images from Corbett
* Arriving at Corbett
* First day at Corbett: safari day trip to Dhikala
* Corbett: In the nature – A struggle between fear and love
* The desperate tourist’s tiger hunt
* Photo Essay: Landscapes of Corbett
* My Days in Corbett
* Encounter with Pachyderms
* Information about Corbett National Park
* Moving on from Corbett


Journey from Rishikesh to Ramnagar (Corbett)

Auli -> Rishikesh -> Corbett National Park -> Varanasi -> Agra

+Previous: Ganga aarti at Haridwar
+Next: First day at Corbett
+Go to beginning of the series

After spending a busy and interesting day at Rajaji National Park and Haridwar, I was ready to leave Rishikesh. My next destination was Corbett National Park.

I spent a whole day travelling to Ramnagar, the town head for before Corbett National Park. Here is the entry from my journal for the day.

“This is a day for journey. Got up easily, without any hurry, got ready and headed out for Ramnagar. The journey, broken at multiple place, took seven hours.

Took a Vikram(a kind of big auto-rickshaw that can take around 8 people) to Haridwar only to figure out that there are no buses to Ramnagar. A bus guy who was headed to Moradabad said I could go to Moradabad and then find a bus to Ramnagar from there. I consulted my map and figured out that going to Kashipur would be a much better option.

The bus to Kashipur leaves Haridwar and passes through Rajaji National Park. It then goes through the plains of Uttar Pradesh. This is a densely populated region. Concept of free space and open areas doesn’t seem to exist! Every inch of land is taken up by agriculture or construction. There is no free land, no trees or forest to be seen for miles and miles. It took around 6 hours to reach Kashipur, and I was welcomed to this small town by traffic jam caused by trucks.

I got a bus from here to Ramnagar in no time. It is a 45-minute, 30-kilometer journey. There are numerous resorts spread on this road, attracting tourists headed to Corbett National Park. I reached Ramnagar at 6.30 and checked into a hotel close to the National Park office.

My hotel owner turned out to be a helpful guy and gave me plenty of information about Corbett without confusing me much, like many other people did. As I had guessed, staying inside the National Park at Dhikala tourist complex was an expensive affair, and I am glad I had budgeted it. I shall be heading for a visit to the park tomorrow!”

More on Corbett National Park at paintedstork.com
* Images from Corbett
* Arriving at Corbett
* First day at Corbett: safari day trip to Dhikala
* Corbett: In the nature – A struggle between fear and love
* The desperate tourist’s tiger hunt
* Photo Essay: Landscapes of Corbett
* My Days in Corbett
* Encounter with Pachyderms
* Information about Corbett National Park
* Moving on from Corbett