Come winter, I look forward to travelling to Varanasi on the occasion of Dev Diwali. A festival not to be confused with Diwali, this is celebrated two weeks after Diwali, more commonly called Karthika Poornima festival in many parts of the country.
A lady lighting the lamps on the ghats during Dev Diwali in Varanasi
On the evening of Dev Diwali, the three-kilometer long ghats–steps leading to Ganga–are all lit with thousands of small earthen oil lamps. The entire stretch appears as though stars have arrived on earth for an excursion. It’s believed that the entire pantheon of ghats descend on earth for a dip in Ganga on this day. Pilgrims too arrive in the ghats in large numbers on the occasion of Dev Diwali, and Panchganga Ghat becomes the most favoured bathing place for the day.
The above photograph was made during this year’s Dev Diwali, which was two weeks ago, when I was leading a photography tour in Varanasi.
It was 6 weeks ago, when were wandering in a small village in the periphery of Inle Lake. It was as idyllic as a rural setup could get. There was a stream flowing by. Paddy fields dominated the landscape with their lush-green colour. The vista of the landscape ended in distant hills decorated by rain bearing clouds. Water buffaloes wandered the open fields, grazing quietly. Sun shined occasionally through the clouds. Row-boats passed through the stream once-in-a-while. Children frolicked by the house-verandas and on the streets. Life moved slowly, gently and unassumingly.
I was lost in this happiness and had completely ignored this monastery, and the monk who stood by the window, watching the same spectacle as I did. I turned around in a moment of unawareness, and suddenly awakened by the beauty of the place. Camera shutter released in an instant.
I have arrived in Varanasi today to witness the visually rich Dev Diwiali festival. I am leading a photography tour and travelling with a small group of enthusiasts who will be here for the next four days.
Tomorrow evening, there will be a dense collection of lamps glittering on the 2km long ghats of Varanasi. From a distance, it is almost as if stars have descended on earth.
I was at the festival last year too, but a broken right hand that was in the process of recuperating did not allow me to make photographs. My fingers barely had the strength to fold and press the shutter button. Nevertheless, I had carried the camera with the hopes of recording a few images of the celebrations. I was unable to take out the camera or make any photographs in the first few days of my stay. However, on the evening of Dev Diwali, unable resist the temptation of this visual feast, I strapped the camera on, endured the pain and made great effort to click a few images. Here is one of them.
I am looking forward to the festival again tomorrow, this time as an active participant than a viewer with limited mobility.