A Day in Aihole
Hampi >> Badmi >> Aihole >> Pattadakal
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As our shared Rickshaw made way to the edge of the village, I saw a couple of ancient temples near the road and familiar ASI-style signs. I thought of getting down there and walk further visiting the temples one after other, but I did not know how far more to go, and decided to continue to the village center. It was a kilometer ahead where the rickshaw dropped us.
It is a typical setup for a remote village turned tourist spot. There is an enclosure within which exist many ancient temples restored and managed by the ASI. And all around the enclosure are hawkers selling fruits, tender coconut and other edible stuff. A few tea shops sell some prepared food which gives you little choice, insisting you to eat what is available if you are hungry. And if you decide to have some tea(sorry, no coffee), be ready for a watery, sugary and ultra-strong concoction which can scare you off.
Durgi Temple, Aihole
I walked into the temple complex and went around it. It is all different, completely different from any ancient structure I have seen before. Each temple is different from other and the architects have let their imagination run wild when building them. Aihole’s temples don’t seem to have parallels anywhere in South India, or for that matter, anywhere in India or may be the whole world. A temple looks like it inspired the parliament building. Another temple has an entrance that immediately leads you to a fork where you have to choose your loyalty to one of the two deities inside. There are gopuras and carvings of all kind, and some temples completely devoid of any carvings. It reminds of all the modern out-of-place glass buildings back in Bangalore that appear like they are designed for a comedy show.
One of the experimental architecture of Aihole. The temple has entrance in the middle and two shrines
Remains of a temple complex
And no wonder, ASI is also confused in identifying these temples. My guide said most of the temples are named ad-hoc, as the deity inside were usually missing. For example, Lad Khan temple is named so because some guy called Lad Khan had lived inside that temple once; same goes with Gowda temple. Durgi gudi does not house goddess Durgi, but is called so because it is close to a compound wall or fort or ‘durga’. A temple did have a shivalinga inside but ASI insists that it was not a temple but a conference hall, and someone later installed a linga there. I smell fish in that description; did ASI cook up the story to keep it away from those who want to worship and perform pooja everyday? Every theory has some possibilities in Aihole. And then as though all the ancient experiments were not enough, ASI has tried its bit while restoring the temples, making its own poor imitations of missing pieces in the temples.
ASI’s restoration attempts in Aihole. No prices for guessing which one is original
Huchhimalli Temple
Aihole is a place where architectural styles were experimented and evolved. Over centuries, people tried, tested and perfected various models which probably got filtered into a few accepted styles that are seen in Pattadakal, and were eventually perfected by Hoysalas. ASI calls Aihole(or was it some historian?) as ‘cradle of Indian architecture’. The temples date from 6th century to 15th century, with constructions from Chalukya and Rashtrakuta dynasties.
A temple Gopura in Aihole, which doesn’t affiliate to any standard architectural styles.
A house in the village, wonder if it is continuation of experiments in architecture in contemporary period!
Durgi Gudi and Lad Khan temple are in the main complex(called the museum) which get the attention of tourist buses and noisy crowds, but there are many many more where almost no one goes to. I like the way tourism happens; when something interesting exists and left on its own, no one cares much. You put a compound wall, levy an entry fee and tell people this is supposed to be important or pretty and suddenly bus loads start coming in! I headed out in search of dozens of temples littered all over the village and saw a variety that is unseen anywhere else. It surprises me why this is not a UNESCO World Heritage Site; if there is one place that simply fascinates the most uninterested too, it is Aihole, more than any other place.
Ravanaphadi is one of the two cave temples
Inside Ravanaphadi
I several styles and experiments during my walk. There is Huchhimalli temple constructed in a ‘mature’ northern or nagar style. Ravanaphadi is a cave temple in one end of the town with some carvings of deities inside, and to the other end of the town is another cave temple which is a Jain temple. Between them lie various temples but primarily worshiping forms of Shiva. Megoti temple is a jain temple on a hillock. Some of the temples still seem to have people living in or around them. There are temples all around the village, and Aihole is unique in every manner and unpredictable to any visitor.
The temple complexes are well maintained and clean. There are dustbins placed in each of these temples, and they are positioned rightly in a corner and as far from the temples as possible. How-ever, I only wish they had labeled it sensibly, like ‘Use me’ or something like that!
There are so many temples in Aihole, restoration work is not yet complete and might take ages to finish. Yet, one must appreciate all the effort put by ASI on refurbishing such a large array of temples.
Continued at: Information: Badami, Aihole and Pattadakal