Travelling in Rajasthan in February 2008
Jaipur >> Shekhawati >> Pushkar >> Jaisalmer >> Jodhpur
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The murals spread densely along the walls, and it is hard to concentrate on any one – eyes keep shifting from one to next. Images of Krishna and his associates dominate most walls, surrounded by frames of various shapes and thick floral borders and designs. He is cuddling with Radha on a swing in one frame, playing with gopikas in the next, and fondly patting his herd of obedient cattle.
Paintings of Krishna are ubiquitous on the walls of Shekhawati’s havelis, but some have gone contemporary and beyond Indian mythology. Pointing at a line of railway coaches in one of the Havelis, my guide tells me that the artists were taken all the way to Mumbai to see the steam engine that was a novelty in those days. Travel stories that I read on Shekhawati tell me of many more murals – of Radha and Krishna depicted driving a car, and of Right Brothers taking off on the first ever airplane. I would like to see, but there are so many havelis dotting the sandy towns of Shekhawati that it is impossible to go in search of every one of them.
Sneh Ram Ladia Haveli
Sneh Ram Ladia’s Haveli in Madawa is my first stop on a day dedicated to Haveli hunting. The paintings here have weathered the century or so they have stood on the walls, unlike a few other I have seen on the way where the colors have faded or the plaster peeled. The caretaker of the house shows me around the sections of the haveli where the merchant-owner spent his day working, the kitchen, women’s quarters and living area, and tells me proudly that it is one of the best kept havelis.
The merchants office is a open courtyard with plenty of light and ventilation to the left of the entrance. The courtyard walls add to the official atmosphere, with paintings of important people, places and occasions. One of them, just behind the merchant’s seat is labeled “Rajput Chief’s Assembly,” displaying a row of mustachioed men in royal clothes. Next to that is a portrait of “Raja of Bilaspur(Kahlur)” who looks stout against his bodyguards who surround him. Near the corners are images of British men and women and large buildings that seem like offices.
The living quarters are on the first floor, approached through a narrow staircase. Walls here are free from officialdom and resort to the images of gods and scenes from mythology. There is Yashoda churning butter as her child watches, Krishna playing his flute, dancing with gopikas and stealing their clothes. The outer walls are have images of armies – Indian kings on elephants and horseback, and the British men standing in uniform with their rifles. There is a king on a procession sitting in his palanquin and lead by a band of musicians announcing his arrival. Portraits of Rajput gentry line the area below awnings, adorned in elaborately designed frames. Where there isn’t enough space to paint a portrait or depict a story, the walls are filled with patterns and floral designs. No corner is left unpainted.
The caretaker of Sneh Ram Shivaprasad Ladia Haveli makes his living selling antiques to tourists, and to dealers coming from cities who buy in larger numbers. He is happy to see his Haveli in a good shape and rues on the fate of many others that are crumbling.
Continued at Images – Paintings on the Havelis
Travelling in Rajasthan in February 2008
Jaipur >> Shekhawati >> Pushkar >> Jaisalmer >> Jodhpur
+ Previous: The Marwari Language
+ Next: Havelis of Shekhawati
The first thing I sight in Mandawa town are a pair of peacocks strolling freely on the main road. They don’t seem much different in their attitude from roosters in villages that fearlessly wander in search of something to peck. They laze on the unmetalled road undaunted, callously moving to a corner when my bus roars into the scene with its high decibel engine. The driver honks at men, cows and peacocks alike, warning about the entry of his brute tin drum that cares little for anything on the way.
Mandawa’s two main roads are just wide enough to let a bus barely make it through, squeezing between gutters on either side. If two wide-bodies of equal might encounter each other in this constrained space, they get into a battle of furious honking until one of them surrenders and retracts. The small town often gets filled with the noise of bus drivers in conflict that gets broadcasted to everyone in town.
The town has peacocks not just wandering on the roads, but also painted on the walls of its crumbling old havelis (mansions) that are covered in colors from corner to corner. In fact, Shekhawati region that encloses Mandawa is sometimes referred to as the world’s largest open air art gallery. Large havelis dot the town that once used to house big families of traders, with each inch of the walls elaborately painted with floral designs, images from Indian mythologies, and portraits of people who framed the history of Shekhawati.
Shekhawati’s good days date beyond two centuries when traders from Delhi used to take this route to reach ports of Gujarat. Passing traders brought prosperity that came in the form taxes collected from wayfarers. Increasing disposable income lead to flourishing population of artisans who decorated the towns with rich colours and painted houses of merchants living opulent lives.
But Shekhawati’s date with fortune had to end with the changing political landscape in Delhi as well as in neighbouring regions of Rajasthan. Kingdoms of Bikaner and Jaipur on either sides of Shekhawati lowered taxes and wooed traders. And later, in the days of dominance of the British, the Mughal empire crumbled and old systems of trade ceased to exist. But the infallible and enterprising Marwari merchants survived the blow and migrated to the new centers of trade – Mumbai and Calcutta. As they prospered in the new cities in the 19th and early 20th century, they propelled money into their homelands to build lavish Havelis that stood as symbol of their pride and success. With local artisan employed to beautify these buildings, Shekhawati emerged as the open art gallery that it is today.
It is easy to stumble upon these richly painted havelis in Madawa. I walk past a few of these crumbling colourful structures as I get down from the bus and onto the dusty street, trying to find my way to the hotel. But the surprise comes when I set into the veranda of my hotel whose walls make a good attempt to match the decor of the old Havelis. Its concrete walls are typical and boring and doesn’t have much in comparison to the thick plasters and wooden supports of the havelis, but the frescoes on them make an honest attempt to brighten the atmosphere. Next to the bed in my room is an erotic image – not usually seen on the walls of havelis – of a young Rajput royal man with his lady, in their intimate moment. I do not know if the uneasy expression on the face of the young man in the painting is a failure of the painter or a job very well done, but the painting definitely surprises me in a time when eroticism is becoming less acceptable in India than in the ancient times.
Thus began my explorations of painted towns of Shekhawati.
Continued at Havelis of Shekhawati
Travelling in Rajasthan in February 2008
Jaipur >> Shekhawati >> Pushkar >> Jaisalmer >> Jodhpur
+ Previous: Jaipur City, Amber Fort and Jal Mahal
+ Next: Marwari Language
Previous Posts: Travelogue on visiting Jaipur’s monuments
1. Arriving at Jaipur
2. Seeing Jaipur with Raju
3. Old City (Pink City)
4. City Palace, Jantar Mantar, Hawa Mahal
5. Amber Fort and Jal Mahal
One of the most popular tourist destinations, Jaipur has much to offer to visitors. There is plenty of history in every other building in Old City. There is Rajasthan’s food to savour, most popular being Dal-Bhati-Churma. For the shopaholic tourist, Jaipur is a heaven of souvenirs and handicrafts. If you are there during any festival season, there is plenty of cultural immersion to soak up in.
View Jaipur in a larger map
Map of Jaipur with important places to see
Places to see. See the travelogue links above for more about each of the monuments. City Palace is the most dominating structure in the city, and a must visit. Close to the palace is Jantar Mantar, the astronomical observatory. Not for from these is the well known Hawa Mahal. All these places are in the Old City, also known as pink city due to uniformly painted buildings in this part of Jaipur. Swargsuli is a tall minaret, not so well known and popular with tourists but worth visiting for a bird’s eye view of the old city.
Just outside the boundary of the Old City is the Gaiter Village, which has the cenotaphs of the rulers of Jaipur. It’s another less visited spot, but don’t miss seeing its fine marble structures.
Looming large and visible from anywhere in Old City is Nahargarh Fort, also called Tiger Fort. A restaurant/bar in Nahargarh stays open in the evening and worth a visit. Amber Fort (pronounced Amer) is a large fort on a hill 10kms outside the city – another must visit.
Also worth experiencing is a walk in the Old City where many old buildings have remained, and things have not changed much in many decades. You can also buy puppets(katputli), colorful robes, marble art work and other handicrafts is some parts. Visit some of the gates of the Old City – Chandpol and Ajmer Gate and Sanganer Gate. The fortifying walls of the city have been restored near these gates.
Food and Accommodation. The Rajasthani food to try is Dal-Bhati-Churma. Bhati is roasted wheat balls. In the middle of the desert, the final steps of cooking bhati involves burying it in sand, but they would have some alternatives to this in the restaurants. Chokhi-Dhani, a resort outside the city serves some amazing delicacies that includes Bajra Roti, Bhati and many other local cuisines that will have you drooling. Chokhi-Dhani also has a mock cultural village which unfolds a the rural setup of Rajasthan. Over the years, Chokhi-Dhani also has become a must-see tourist attraction in Jaipur. There are dance shows, puppet shows, cart rides, camel rides and things that you should expect in a village in the desert, all showcased between the walls of the resort. Om Restaurant on Mirrza Ismail Road is another place to go to eat – they have a revolving restaurant at 11th floor where you can sit and see the city unfold as you have lunch.
Being a touristy place, accommodation is plentiful. Ask for a list of home-stays at Rajasthan Tourism Office. Most of the premium hotels and resorts are outside the city and requires some driving. Rajasthan Government has a few mid-range properties in the heart of the town.
There is a lot for shopaholic and souvenir hunter too. There are small shops around City Palace, and near Chandpol. For a more organized shopping, visit the art gallery at City Palace and Rajasthan Government’s Rajasthali Emporium on Mirza Ismail Road. Jaipur is also known for its gems and jewelery industry.
Continued at Marwari Language