Chadar Expedition – January 2012

chadar trekChadar Trek is an unusual expedition of walking on a frozen river. The Zanskar River in Ladakh freezes in winter, enabling walking on the ice sheet in a narrow gorge that is inaccessible in summer.

I have had several queries on the Chadar Expedition in 2012 much before we even started planning it. Finally, here is the announcement on Chadar 2012. The expedition will be lead by Manish Lakhani, a chadar veteran who has been trekking on the ice-shelf of Zanskar River for seven years now. Chadar expert Lobasang, a Ladakhi with over a dozen chadar expeditions to his credit will be the tour guide for the trek.

The expedition is scheduled from January 14th to 31st of 2012. See more details on the expedition, including the full itinerary and pricing at the Chadar Expedition page.

I went on this trek in with Manish in Jan-Feb 2011. Below are some images from my trip. Also see Manish’s account of Chadar Trek 2011.




Categories: ladakh

The Chadar Trek

Also: see details of Chadar Expedition in January 2012, lead by tour leader Manish Lakhani

Some of you might have been seeing images from my Chadar Expedition – walking on frozen Zanskar River on paintedstork facebook page. I had given a brief introduction to the trek along with a photograph in an earlier post, soon after I returned from the memorable three-week expedition. Before I delve into the depths of it and write more on Chadar, here is a documentary worth seeing for anyone who is remotely interested in Ladakh and Zanskar regions, especially for those who intend to do this trek in the coming years.

Discovery Channel is running a documentary on ‘Chadar – The Ice Trail.’ It is being played almost every alternate day this week. Take a look at the schedule and consider watching this. Here is a short trailer on youtube. It is also worthwhile remembering that Border Roads Organization is building a road running parallel to the river, which will make the trek a redundant and noisy experience in about five to ten years time. But the road has the potential to change the lives of people of Zanskar forever and bring in considerable improvement in quality of life.


Sighting a Snow Leopard

When Lady Luck has her eyes set on you, she makes appearances in unlikely places and in unlikely ways.

A Snow Leopard was the last thing I was expecting during my two-week trip to the heart of Zanskar. Being winter, I was hoping to see and photograph no more than a bird or two at the villages we encounter on the way. Our guide Lobsang, who had been beating these tracks for more than ten years had never seen a Snow Leopard in this part of Ladakh. Same was true with our tour leader Manish, who had been visiting Zanskar every winter for the last five years.

It was the ninth day of our trek and we had begun the downstream journey from Zangla Village in Zanskar to Leh. Taking advantage of the roads built to traverse within the remote regions of Zanskar, we were taking a car for the first fifteen kilometers before the road ends and the walk begins.

As we were driving from Pidmo Village to Tsarak Dho, someone in the car spotted a group of Ibex on the other side of the slope, perhaps about half-a-kilometer away. The Ibex, about a dozen of them, were sprinting fast along the slope. For a moment we wondered why they were running so fast. Someone suggested that they were perhaps scared by our car. But we were too far and that was unlikely. Gazing at them from the window of the car, I silently wondered what made them sprint. That’s when I saw an odd one in the group. The last one among the runners appeared to have an unusually long tail, unlike rest of the group with short raised tails. I shouted to Lobsang with excitement and said, “something is chasing them.”

Lobsang, who has grown up in Changthang region seeing many snow leopards eat up their sheep, had a second look and decidedly said, “it is a snow leopard.” There was a sudden burst of excitement in the group. We stopped the car and got down quickly for a good look.

While we were getting out from the jeep, the action on the other side of the slope had come to an end as quickly as we had seen it begin. The group of ibex had managed to give a slip to the leopard and the chaser had given up. A few ibex had got separated from the group, but none were in the danger of being caught. We lost sight of the leopard for a few seconds until Lobsang traced it again, emerging slowly from a depression in the slope. It now walked slowly up the hill with a grace that only a big cat can display, despite having lost chase. Its head though, was drooped and barely seen from the distance that we were at, perhaps with a sense of resignation arising from the failed chase.

As he walked slowly uphill on a scaly patch of snow, I asked Lobsang to keep an eye on it and returned to fetch my camera from the car. The leopard allowed me a few poor-yet-recognizable shots before it went behind a bush and out of our sight.

snow leopard