Padum to Darcha Trek in Ladakh and Zanskar Region

In the summer of 2008, I travelled extensively in Ladakh spending two memorable months in the mountain country. Then, I had quit my corporate job a few months ago and was enjoying my time seeing the country. I travelled on budget, taking public transport as much as possible and living in home-stays in the villages. At the end of my trip, I exited Ladakh by making a two day bus journey to Padum in Zanskar and then making the nine-day trek through the mountains that led me to Darcha in Himachal Pradesh. The duration of Padum to Darcha trek is reducing every year, with a new motor road in the making I maintained a journal for much part of the journey to Ladakh, including this trek. Here a detailed trek-log, much of it taken as-is from the journal.

Padum to Darcha Trek

The road to Darcha goes along Lungnak River, steadily climbing up until the river’s origin near Shingo-la Pass. We begin from Padum on an unmetalled road, under construction from the venerable Border Roads Organization. Some day, when this road is ready, the entire stretch of our trekking route will be replaced by a highway that will probably be just wide enough for a vehicle to pass. But that’s just how Himalayan Roads are. The trek-route will be defunct then, so there is a sense of urgency in doing it now.

It’s a smooth walk from Padum along the road till we reach Bardan, the next village on the way. There are a few streams breaking the path that disturb the monotony of walking on the road. At Bardan, a monastery dominates the village landscape, standing on a crag at the end of a smooth curve of the river. Beyond the monastery, the mountains plunge into a deep gorge carved by Lungnak River.

Bardan Monastery, Zanskar

Bardan Monastery and Lungnak River

Just before the arriving at monastery, I see a tiny rodent that runs pasts me into its hiding in a wall built from rocks. I wait for it to come out, keeping my camera aimed at its hole. It sure does, carefully checking out for enemies from its safety. I take a few pictures, which later help me identify it as a Himalayan Pika. A few minutes of walking later, I encounter a white rumped swallow-like bird and a red-tailed bird, neither of which I am able to name. 


Categories: photos

Ladakh – Tso Moriri Lake Frozen in Winter

Come winter, the beautiful azure lakes of Ladakh freeze over and turn white. This January, Tso Moriri Lake in Changthang Plateau had formed a thick layer of ice on the surface, and had buckled to its own pressure at places. The night-time temperatures probably hovered around 25 below zero, which made it a warmer than usual winter!

A frozen Tso Moriri Lake during winter months in Ladakh


Categories: ladakh, photos

Mountains of Ladakh, seen from an aircraft window..

I witnessed this magical moment of crossing a river’s path from high up in the air, when I was returning after concluding a photography tour of the winter landscapes of Ladakh. I wasn’t really looking to shoot through the aircraft window, as the haze/clouds during the day really spoils the opportunity to make good images. It was 10.30 already and the sun was high up, but Ladakh’s air was remarkably clear and seeing the river from 30,000 feet up in the air was a moment not to be forgotten. I was sitting by the window, but my camera was packed and put away in my bag. I grabbed my neighbour’s camera and quickly fired a few shots. Here is one of them.

Landscapes of Ladakh from an aircraft