Travelling in Himachal in June – 2007
Shimla >> Manali >> Rohtang >> Chandratal >> Ki/Kibber/Tabo >> Kalpa >> Shimla
+ Previous: Kalpa Village
+ Go to beginning of the story or index page
The travelogue on Lahaul, Spiti and Kinnaur is complete with this post. Here is the last one on planning, logistics and other information on the trip.
We started from Manali and ended in Shimla, travelling via Batal, Kaza, Nako and Rekong Peo. It is perfectly fine to do it the other way too, which seems to be the most common way to travel because Shimla is closer to Delhi and that’s where most people would like to begin.
Road Conditions
Some sections of the road will be closed in winter and will be open only for 4-6 months a year. If you are starting early in summer, it is always good to know weather condition. The stretch between Shimla and Kaza is likely to remain open through the year unless there are landslides or exceptionally bad weather. Rohtang Pass opens some time in late May but can get delayed depending on snow conditions. Kunzum la can take more time to open.
If you are planning to take your own vehicle, do note that the section of the road from Rohtang Pass to Losar village in Spiti can’t be done by cars. This stretch doesn’t have tarmac and can be ridden with stones and bad surface. It is better done with a utility vehicle. Tata Sumo and Mahindra jeeps seem to be the most commonly used vehicles. Scorpios might work too, but I haven’t seen Qualis or Tavera plying on these roads. The stretch from Kaza to Shimla can also be done by a small car. Bikes should be able manage the entire journey without too much of a problem, though Rohtang Pass to Losar will be a bit painful.
Road to Chandratal is always the last to open, if at all. Sometimes forest department closes the road to keep the place environment friendly while people with other interest try to keep it open. Always find the latest status before you go.
Weather
It doesn’t get very cold in summer, despite the altitude. I found a good jacket and a woolen cap to be sufficient cover. Days are in fact warm to hot. The high altitude sun tends to be very strong, and carrying sunscreen is important. Always wear full shirt or you might risk sunburn on the hands.
Logistics and expenses
You can hire Sumos or Mahindra jeeps in Manali, and hopefully in Shimla too. This would be the biggest of your expenses, so more people you have less expensive it is. The prices are much higher than in the plains and it might cost you more than Rs.2,000 per day. A lot of people do this journey in bikes too. Bikes can be hired in Delhi or Manali, but as far as I know there are no bike rentals in Shimla. The general opinion seems to be that you can get good bikes in Delhi but not in Manali. Food and accommodation is inexpensive in most places, but is also basic.
Public transport is available in good frequency till Rekong Peo. Connectivity from Rekong Peo to Kaza is also not bad, but you might want to know the timings before hand and plan the journey after you reach Rekong Peo. Buses start plying between Kaza and Manali a little late in summer, as it takes some time for the road to be fit for buses to go.
An ideal itinerary according to me would take seven days, stopping at Batal(2 days), Kaza(2 days), Nako, Kalpa, Sangla. But most people do it in 5 days or less, which is very much possible. The fastest you can do is in three days, doing just driving and little else. The most scenic part of the journey is between Rohtang Pass and Kaza.
Also see more information on Shimla, Manali and Kalpa.
End of the Series.
List of posts from Lahaul and Spiti
* Driving to Batal from Rohtan Pass
* Batal and Chandratal
* Kunzum La, Kaza, Ki Monastery, Kibber Village
* Tabo Monastery and Nako Village
* The hurried women of Nako
Travelling in Himachal in June – 2007
Shimla >> Manali >> Rohtang >> Chandratal >> Ki/Kibber/Tabo >> Kalpa >> Shimla
+ Previous: Kunzum La, Kaza, Ki Monastery and Kibber Village
+ Next: The hurried women of Nako
+ Go to beginning of the story or index page
We left Kaza early next morning. It was going to be a long drive today to Nako village, where we were planning to spend the night. Deciding not hurry through too many places, we skipped visiting Dhankar(Dhangkar) Monastery and Pin Valley. Like it usually happens, friends would tell me later that Dhankar is one of the prettiest places in Spiti Valley.
I can’t be all too praises about this part of the drive. All the overused words on Spiti can be re-used again – the landscapes are dramatic, muddy brown Spiti River was in full force and we still travelled sandwiched between rows of mountains kissing the sky. But very unlike me and of my love to mountains, I started feeling the monotony. First there was boredom of driving which held us away from the feel of being part of the mountains. We were going like tourists – in way it is used as a dirty word – the fast moving sightseeing and quickly going from place to place type. And then sun was probably getting on us. High altitude sun baked our bodies and had us feeling tired in no time. Staying out was impossible, and every time we walked somewhere, we constantly kept looking for some shade.
The thousand-year-old monastery was closed for lunch hour when we made it to Tabo. We lunched while we waited, and quickly grew impatient in the sunny weather. Such experiences only increase my reverence to the ever-smiling mountain people who probably never know what getting angry is like. Nothing seems to bend them, be it the hard terrain and weather or the difficulty of everyday living that we almost take for granted.
The millennium old Tabo Monastery
Tabo monastery is said to be a world heritage center, but there seems to be some confusion about it. My driver said so, and so did the monks. Lonely Planet also makes a mention of it, but UNESCO list doesn’t speak about it. I still don’t have a clue of the exact status; please fill me in if you know.
Tabo monastery is a millennium old and is known for its well-preserved frescoes. The prayer hall, called Tuglhakhang, is richly decorated with frescoes in vibrant colors. A set of nine small temples built with mud surround the prayer hall, each with paintings of incarnations of Buddha and Tibetan deities. The daily activities of the monastery are performed in a new building built beside the temple complex, leaving the ancient structure preserved.
Oppressed by the sun, we did not stay there for long, and continued to Nako. It was 4pm when we reached Nako, and we immediately headed for the lake above the village, leaving driver Mangal to find a place for the night.
At nearly 10,000 feet, Nako is like a green oasis in Spiti’s high altitude desert. The distinct green patch of the village is visible from far away as we drive through the valley. An irrigation system that feeds the artificial lake, and the potato fields of the village sustains the local population. Like elsewhere in the region, tourism is becoming a new means of livelihood, which is evident from ongoing construction of guesthouses in every alley of the village. The lone school has plenty of kids but seems to have problems finding teachers willing to work there. For reasons I could not figure, people here seem a lot less contented when compared to rest of Spiti we had left behind.
Nako lake is an unlikely water body in Spiti’s steep valleys and arid landscape. It is created by constructing a mound on the slope, just above the village. Probably because of its origins, it doesn’t have the feel of a high altitude lake, normally characterized by clear, turquoise and frigid waters. It is comfortably warm for a bath and has a light green color that is more fit for the plains.
Nako Lake
Despite being lower than Batal and Kaza where we had spent the nights earlier, Nako’s air is thinner and even slight walking made us feel very tired. Back from the lake, Mangal had already found a place for us where we settled down to spend the night.
Continued at The hurried women of Nako